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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.